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As elegant as an art deco treasure box with
about as much shine, Astons Champagne and Wine
Bar is a destination bar with a lovely dockside
view. It may not sound like the most credit
crunch friendly of places but the prices are
sure to surprise.
The Venue
Astons Champagne and Wine Bar isn't the easiest
bar to find and there isn’t much in the
way of passing trade. Located on Marsh Wall
overlooking the South Dock, its closest tube
stop is South Quay DLR. The exterior exudes
the image of an undistinguished concrete building,
although this is redeemed by an immense outdoor
terrace that begs for a sunny day.
Inside is where the real magic happens. Transformed
into a 1930s vision of an elegant cocktail bar,
the interior is decked out in shades of cool
cream, sexy black and sleek chrome. A small
grand piano teases musical entertainment. Broad
windows take full advantage of stunning water
views and the glittering lights of Canary Wharf
and the O2 Arena dance across the water after
dark. Sink into a buttery cream leather banquette
and take in the black bejeweled chandeliers,
lit up like a showgirl's plumed fan.
The Atmosphere
Personable bar staff are clearly proud of Astons
Champagne and Wine Bar and flirt up a storm
with the attractive corporate crowd of predominately
twenty-to-thirtysomethings who make the most
of the bar for after work drinks. On weekends
it attracts a local crowd looking for a bit
of glitz.
The Food
A brasserie style menu offers something for
everyone. Brunch is served until 1pm and includes
more of a breakfast menu with dishes like a
Full English (£6.95) and, refreshingly,
cheap basic options like a bacon butty (£2.95)
and beans on toast (£2.95).
Lunch here can be reasonable with sandwiches
starting at £5.75 for a chicken and bacon
sandwich with sour cream. They also do a Credit
Crunch Lunch offer for just £4.95 for
a choice of two sandwiches, a jacket potato
or soup with a soft drink (you can upgrade to
a half pint for just £1 more), representing
real value.
If you’re visiting in the evening they
also offer a choice of main meals that include
an 8oz rib eye for under a tenner, a baked salmon
fillet for just £8.95 or sausage and mash
for £7.75. They also offer a great choice
of sharers and platters starting from just £6.95.
Great value.
The Drink
Of course, Champagne is the star of the show
at Astons Champagne and Wine Bar. That said,
as with other aspects of their menus, there
are some more wallet-friendly options that prove
very competitive. Bottles start at £35
for Grand Brut or just £7.50 a glass.
This rises to a still reasonable £65 for
a bottle of Bollinger Special Cuvee. Of course,
prestige and vintage bottles are there for those
who can afford them, rising to £190 for
a bottle of Cristal.
There’s also a great choice of red and
white wine starting at just £14.95 for
a bottle of Merlot Bodegas Lauquita. The wine
is well described on the menu, thus making your
choice easier. If you prefer your alcohol a
little less refined then they have a nice choice
of draught beers including Peroni, Becks, Guinness,
John Smiths Extra Smooth and Hoegaarden, starting
at just £2.95 a pint. Finally, there is
a pretty large selection of classic cocktails
at a not unreasonable £8. Their signature
cocktail is the Absolute Astons with Absolut
vodka, cointreau, blue curacao and fresh lemon
juice topped with Champagne for £8.50.
The Last Word
With a name like Astons Champagne and Wine Bar
and a location in the heart of the Docklands
it’s an easy assumption to make that this
is going to be an expensive playground for corporate
business types. Happily, they appear to have
taken into account the reduced expense accounts
of the natives and the wide-reaching consequences
of the crunch with its reasonable prices. A
pleasant surprise.
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South Quay has for too long been overlooked
as a dining destination but one restaurant aims
to change that by offering good food at affordable
prices.
Astons, in Marsh Wall, has revamped its menu,
along with its image, making it a definite contender
in the eating stakes.
The restaurant has had a major refit and now
sports an Art Deco feel. Sitting with a cocktail
in hand, gazing out across the water of South
Quay it's not too much of a leap of the imagination
to feel you are aboard an ocean liner in the
1920s.
The ambience is one thing but the food deserves
serious consideration as well. Owner Cheryl
Tunmer explained the idea behind the menu.
She said: "It's a bistro/brasserie style
menu and there is something to appeal to everyone
on it. We decided to keep it simple and by concentrating
on that we hope we are able to do things well.
"We've put a lot of effort into selecting
our food and we've made sure the quality is
high, with the meat having the best provenance."
Carnivores are very well served with the menu.
Ribeye steak (£11.95), lamb chops (£10.50)
and chilli con carne (£7.95) will always
appeal, but for a real blow out try the mixed
grill (£13.50).
This meat feast features lamb's liver, lamb
cutlet, rump steak, gammon steak and a pork
sausage, all cooked to perfection. Guaranteed
to hit the spot.
Of course, a mixed grill is not everyone's cup
of meat - to quote Bob Dylan - and for a lighter
alternative why not sample Aston's amazing fishcakes
(£7.75).
The two whale-sized patties coated in crisp
breadcrumb are packed with fishy flavour. Unlike
a lot of restaurants they are not padded out
with potato, and if your appetite is small you'll
struggle to finish.
If you still have room desserts (£4.95)
include white chocolate pannetone bread and
butter pudding and French apple tart or you
could just settle for an good cup of coffee.
The Cabernet Franc (£17.95) is a good
wine to try if you are partial to a bit of red
to wash down some steak. But if beer is your
thing there is a good selection of draught beers
available. And, as this is a champagne bar,
a drop of bubbly would not go amiss starting
at £35 a bottle.
Cocktails are another speciality. Starting at
£8 a menage a trois or absolut passion
might help ease those work worries, or you could
move up to the Absolute Astons (£8.50),
a headspinning concoction of Absolut vodka,
cointreau, blue curacao, fresh lemon juice and
champagne - guaranteed to get any party off
with a swing.
With summer on the way Aston's has just this
week launched its barbecue menu, with classic
burgers (£5.45) , piri piri wings (£4.25)
or half rack of bbq ribs ((£5.25) among
the items on offer.
"We've got lots of space, a fantastic view
and a great atmosphere," said Cheryl. "I
think we're going to get a wonderful summer
so what better way to celebrate it than by eating
al fresco?"
With convivial surroundings,
attentive service, great drinks and, above all,
good food, Astons is definitely a destination
worth seeking out.
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Nailing the atmosphere in an champagne and wine
bar is an intangible craft; trying too hard
or not hard enough can be equally damaging.
Aston's on Marsh Wall has walked this fine line
with panache - and it hasn't even had its official
opening yet.
Located on the site of the old Waterfront bar,
Aston's is in the soft launch stage (with the
official opening due in the coming weeks), but
already its Art Deco interior decoration weaves
an immediately calming and comfortable atmosphere
- strange indeed from a place which still has
that 'new bar' smell.
Much thought has gone into the design, with
the gorgeous ring-shaped bar the centrepiece
of a room that simply flows with curves, from
the ceiling all the way around the cosy booths
that trace the room's walls.
It feels vaguely like a 60s version of the future,
sort of Art Deco shaking hands with George Jetson.
If you're not a fan of the office-block-flooded
Docklands vistas, Aston's perspective could
just change your mind.
Unlike a lot of the area's bars it's not on
ground level, giving you a God-like sensation
and making you master of your domain - not a
slave to it. These views extend to The O2, rare
in the enclosed forest of skyscrapers of Canary
Wharf.
Gentleman's club Majingos occupies the premises
above Aston's, with a shared entrance on one
side, which in theory has the potential to make
for a 'non-inclusive' vibe. However, there's
no real cross-over, as seen by the number of
couples and groups of female Wharfers enjoying
the Wednesday evening ambience.
In its pre-launch state the exterior is unassuming;
you have to find Aston's, it won't come looking
for you (it's dockside behind Wyndham House).
Management recognises this disadvantage and
has plans for more than adequate signage to
combat this.
They also say there's a
lot more to do before the bar is ready for the
official open. Can't see it's needed, myself.
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